Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks. Climbing Up / Ascending Mountains
Alpine climbing, Rock climbing, Free climbing,
Top roping, Ice climbing, Mixed climbing, Scrambling
Alpine climbing (Mountaineering) -
Ascending mountains for sport or recreation. It often involves rock and/or ice
climbing.
Uzbekistan mountains
The mountains of
Uzbekistan enter in structure of Tyan-Shan and Alay mountain systems. On territory turn the western spurs of
Tyan-Shan and Gissar-Alay mountain system.
To south and west they gradually lower and turn to plains.
Internal (tectonic) power of Earth formed folds grown the powerful ranges of mountains.
The mountains and foothills with brook relief, located in east and south-east part of Uzbekistan, where they unite with powerful mountain deep brook massive on territory of Kirgizya and Tadjikistan. Mainly this
Ugam, Pskem, Chatkal, Kuramin ranges and their western and south-western spurs, concerning to
Western Tyan-Shan system and Turkestan, Zerafshan and Gissar ranges with their continuous on south-western -
Babatag and Kugintangtau ranges, concerning to Gissar-Alay system.
Entering on territory of Uzbekistan its spurs formed radiating bundle of mountain chains, constantly less in north-western and south-western directions. The character example is
Karjantau,
Maygashkan and Surenata ranges in western Tyan-Shan system and Nuratau,
Aktau and Kuratau ranges and Karatepa and Ziadin-Zirabulak mountains, being the last of
Pamir-Alay.
Entering in Western Tyan-Shan system the mountain ranges (Karjantau, Ugam, Pskem, Chatkal, Kuramin) began from Talass Alatau (on border with Kirgizstan), further as fan radiate from here and continuos to north-east to south-west.
The more high point of Talass Alatau is mountain Manas (4482m).
The high point of Chatkal range on territory of Uzbekistan -
Greater Chimgan peak (3309 m).
Between Chatkal and Kuramin ranges located Akhangaran valley.
The apexes of Western Tyan-Shan covered with snow and glaciers.
The Chatkal and Kuramin ranges border on north with Fergana valley. From east she borders with
Fergana range, from south with Alay and Turkestan ranges.
To north-west from Turkestan range raises the Malguzar range, to south-west
Chumkartau range. Only the north slopes of Chumkartau entering on territory of Uzbekistan. The valley of
Sanzar river separate the Malguzar mountains from Nuratau mountains. The weak point in this valley named
Tamerlan gates.
The Nuratau mountains stretch on 180 km. Their north slope is steep, the south slope is gently sloping. The high point of North part of Nuratau mountains is
Khayatbashi apex (2165 m). The south part of Nuratau mountains consists from separate apexes (Aktau, Karatau, Karagatau, Gabduntau).
On the south and as parallel to Turkestan range located Zarafshan range. With self eastern part he entering on territory of Tadjikistan. On south from Zarafshan range located
Gissar range and his south-western spurs (Yakkobag, Surkhantau, Kugikantau, Baysuntau, Chakgar and other). Here located the
highest point of Uzbekistan - the Khazret Sultan (4643 m).
In western part of Gissar range are two glaciers - Batirbay and Severcev. On south of Uzbekistan along of border with Tadjikistan located
Babatag range. The high point - Zarkasa (2292 m).
The main features of orography of Uzbekistan connected with features of geological structure of above-mentioned the mountain systems.
This bond found expression in these, that between mountain ranges located spacious foothill and intermountain depressions, the large from which is
Tashkent-Golodnosteppe, Fergana Zarafshan, Kashkadarya and
Surkhandarya.
Please note that Uzbekistan's fourthousanders (Uzbekistan's Mountain Peaks, which are above four thousands meters high) are located in border areas. For example the
Khazret Sultan Peak, the highest point of Uzbekistan (4,643 m), is located on the border between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, in Surkhandarya Province, in the Uzbek part of the Gissar Range.
The Adelung Peak (4,301 m) the highest peak in Pskem Range in extreme north-east of Uzbekistan's Tashkent Province as well as the nearby the Beshtor Peak (4,299 m), located a little further to the south-west in the same range, are situated near to Kyrgyz border. Therefore even local climbers cannot go there without a special permit. Besides, there is no transparent procedure of getting the permits to border areas, which haven't good infrastructure of tourism, into the bargain; therefore organizing of any expedition there takes enormous efforts, time and money. Knowing this most of climbers prefer the
Fann mountains near to Uzbekistan with good infrastructure,
Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay in Kyrgyzstan,
Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa, Kyrgyzstan or the Chimgan Mountains (both, in winter and in summer) near to Tashkent.
We can offer you very interesting experience of rock climbing in the Chimgan mountains. There are routes of 1B-4B Russian grade. We can provide you with
official certificate of successful climbing. We provide gears and can guarantee your success.
The suggested route is a traverse of three peaks (3A by Russian grade): the Greater Chimgan
(3309 m), the Kichkina (2879 m) and the Aukashka (3099 m). It will take 4-5 days.
Magnificent landscapes and challenge rock climbing. You can see a picture of proposed route below.
The
Chimgan Mountains are invariably attractive
for mountaineers. The wide variety of Chimgan and its surroundings allows the
activity in all kinds of mountaineering and landscape tourism. Mountains
(Small and Greater Chimgan Peaks - 3,309 m) of Chatkal range, plateaus, the
Black Waterfall (40 m) at the lower part of
Greater Chimgan Peak,
Gulkam and
Novotasha waterfalls, attract a lot of tourists from Uzbekistan and abroad.
Another attractive place for mountaineering
is situated on Ugam ridge and on the southern; slopes of the
Karjantau ridge of
the Western Tyan-Shan system.
There are following natural sites, which
are of interest of mountaineers in area of Ugam & Karjantau ridges:
• Peak Mingbulak (2,628 m) - the highest peak of the Karjantau ridge.
• Loquacious cave is located on
plateau Ghiza, 20 km from
village Humsan, in a funnel-shaped hollow. On the
bottom of the hollow, in the exposure of grey limestone, there is a 1x1 m
rectangular aperture transforming to a 1.5 m high sloping tunnel. Its floor is covered with lumps, ceiling being arcaded. This tunnel is 20 m long and leads to the inner larger part of the cave. A ladder is needed in order to proceed into
the cave as there is a 6 m high prominence. Then the floor levels out, height
reaching 20-30 m. The cave is so named due to a streamlet flowing through it.
• Arkutsay – exposure of loess
stratum. The site is 3 km west of Humsan, on the right bank of the Ugam River. Section of the formation represents the wall of a small landslide breakaway and
is a stratum of interstratifying loess-like loams of Quaternary and fossil
soils horizons. The section is unique as it exposes more than 80 m thick deposition of rocks.
• Kyrk-Kokyl waterfall (in Uzbek “Kyrk-Kokyl”
means 40 plaits) – pictorial waterfall at Pustonlyk – confluent of Ugam River, 9 km from Humsan village.
Forms of mountain climbing applicable in Uzbekistan Mountains
Rock climbing: Ascending rock formations, often using climbing shoes and a chalk
bag. Equipment such as ropes, bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are
normally employed, either as a safeguard or for artificial aid.
Rock climbing is a sport in which
participants climb up or across natural rock formations with the goal of
reaching the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route. Rock
climbing is similar to scrambling (another activity involving the scaling of
hills and similar formations), but climbing is generally differentiated by its
need for the use of the climber's hands to hold his or her own weight and not
just provide balance.
Rock climbing is a physically and mentally
demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility,
and balance along with his or her mental control. It can be a dangerous sport
and knowledge of proper climbing techniques and usage of specialized climbing
equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.
Free climbing is climbing without the use of pre-set belays. One person (the
leader) will start the climb carrying one end of the rope and will gradually
attach it to additional anchors as he or she climbs, thereby establishing a
belay system that progresses with the climb. Subtypes of free climbing are trad
climbing and sport climbing.
Top roping
is climbing with the protection of a rope that's already suspended through an
anchor at the top of a route. A belayer controls the rope, keeping it taut, and
prevents long falls.
Ice climbing:
Ascending ice or hard snow formations using special equipment designed for the
purpose, usually ice axes and crampons. Protective equipment is similar to rock
climbing, although protective devices are different (ice screws, snow wedges).
Mixed climbing a combination of ice and rock climbing. Often involving specialized
ice climbing slippers and specialized ice tools.
Scrambling (“non-technical”
rock climbing also known as alpine scrambling) is a method of ascending rocky
faces and ridges. It is a term that lies somewhere between hillwalking and rock
climbing.
Note: You can request us to prepare
a route for you, which include any kind of alpine climbing listed above.
Mountain Safety
As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.
Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.
Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.
Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.
Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.